How do you teach the Send Out? - Page 1

How often do you practice the down?

The long down you should try to do that every day...

The send out is easy, it is the coming back where you may have
a problem.

Voraus!...... I always use this German command...I still use alot of
commands in German even training ring dogs. But that  is just me,
Most Ring people will use French. Both in NVBK and Fr Ring.

Mainlymax,

The send out is easy, it is the coming back where you may have a problem.

 

From what I understand, the send-out does not require the dog to come back.  Do you mean the "down" command in the send-out?

Yeah, would love to hear from those who found a good way to down a dog running at speed for the send-out.

 

I don't know what Max is talking about, but I wouldn't practice the down on the send out too often.

I totally agree DON ...... when you down too much the dog loses speed and is anticipating the down ...... I do the down once to 15-20 times ............... and my down is not a down as in the platz exercises but is a desperate (panic) platz ........................... by doing this my send out has been both full points in the sch1 and 2 with my Razer ...................  if one has to sacrifice a point or 2 I would rather lose it with a slow down than not having the speed going out. Not having the speed going out will hurt your total picture more then a slow down.   Hope this helps !   Regards ................. Greg

No, Greg, I agree with you! Sent a PM.

Mainly Max ..Bon jour ,..   thumbs up .. i am glad to know that i am not the only one using the 'German" commands in other rings sports !! althought my french is very good !! -- and i assume you do this for simialr reason i do , which other people in the ring sports miss-understand.. in ring sports for those in Sch .. it is very important that when required the dog comes back to you like lightening when the has been sent away from you to perform a task .. e.g's :  if a dog is guarding and you call the dog back .. it is not good for the dog to take it's blessed time .. you call the dog 'aus'/off the bite , i meter away from the helper , not good for the dog to slow down and lallygag . in ring there is a  category for " GENERAL OUTLOOK" where point deductions will occur .. not ant particualr exercise , but the presentation of the dog as a whole in perfroming .. even if all the exercises are executed without loss of points [ handler and dog start out with 100% points , they are lost , not gained like Sch]. when the dogs away .. it is fast .. returning .. it is fast !! i think this is what MM means

I taught my dog to run round a visual object when I point to it eg. a tree/ stump/ bench/ street lights.  I gradually increase the distance and only once a while tested the “down” by screaming my head off (I suppose this may be construed as a panic platz) and rewarding her eventual “down” (emphasis) with a ball.  However I am not sure if this method is used by others or if its any good.

I have seen people using the ball dangled on a pole method;  a ball launcher devise method  and ball on the ground method.  The latter definitely not to my liking because I found the dog tend to sniff the ground after a fair distance.

Please share what works for you.

poseidon .. i like the fact that you require your dog to perform a task at will .. as stated in previous threads .. ? what is the difference to ask your dog to , as you wrote , to go around a tree when given a directed command , a treet light etc, and the search of a blind ?? same request isn't it .. that is a principle i have preached : teach the dog the request & generalize  , put it on cue ... THEN bring the task once leanred to your sport routine.. if there are mistakes .. you can clean them up before they transfer to your sport session.. //////////       a little OT -- but i see this often when i go to trials , especially Sch trials -- makes me laugh my butt off - WHY is it that when a command is given , knowing that our dogs hear 10 x better than we do . people YELL / SHOUT ..  !! a word to share : i always talk with a low , even keeled voice .. just in normal tone, pitch , cadence .. ALWAYS  do this .. DO not condition IMO your dogs to listen to you when you increase volume ..  do not teach your dogs to blow your voice off  because to them talking other than soft tone  is intepreted as , ' he doesn't mean what he is saying'..    an "aus" in normal tone is an 'out' !!!.. that's it not an issue .. 'OUT' !!       and just the opposite , if I have to repeat myself OR raise my voice .. i will have asserted myself already !! if you always are given commands in volume ,, that also eliminates the intensity in which you can later with efficiency give a verbal reprimand ..-- if  always speaking with high volume  high  , you have no place to increase your tone , volume further ... this is why i start low , very low .. if i even begin to increase the volume .. my dogs know this is "a reprimand, correction in your termimology]. when you talk low .. you force dogs AND people to listen ... they have to exert energy /effort , concentration to listen !! last words of advice ... and this topic is exraordinarly important .. my mentor teaught me well , this lesson : YOUR mouth will betray you !! that is ... whether we parcatice in awareness of ourselves , or not, every dog is tuned in to you tone, pitch , volume .. - with your mouth .. if by those modalities you even give the dog the impression that YOU THINK it will not obey / comply .. then chances are .. it won't .. if you don't think or feel your dog will search / out / down/ act and sound as if it is absolutely going to & if you are not proejcting  confidence / assurance  , verbally or non-verbally .. then your dog will pick this up , and  the dog  won't be either !! IMO ... this is most criticl and underlies ALL the teaching  in  all the nice posts DON has started .. what good is it to teach our dogs ..if we haven't mastered ourselves ??? with all the posts 'how do you teach ' , the teaching styarts with ourselves before we even think about the dog